With a dynamic menu, a cool look, and strong service, Sol Cocina has taken root in the new Playa Vista Runway complex, offering beautiful food in a beautiful setting. Forget the re-fried beans and rice, this is Mexican cuisine the way it was meant to be served and prepared.
A covered patio caters to warm SoCal nights; inside the modern, rich dark wood and gold light makes a romantic setting. The glass-walled, open kitchen allows diners to see the magic being made under the auspices of executive chef Deborah Schneider and chef de cuisine Tia Baker.
This isn’t the first time Sol Cocina’s sophisticated Baja-based cuisine has been brought North, partners Rich Howland and Matt Baumayr have restaurants in Newport Beach and Scottsdale. The partners have taken what Howland describes as a “leap of faith,” opening in Playa Vista, where some 80% of residences are not yet fully occupied. But diners living far from the planned Playa Vista community are filling the tables, drawn to this inventive, flavorful cuisines.
Howland notes “This is authentic, non-Americanized cuisine. We have 27 different salsas made fresh in-house. We use no jars or bottles, everything is fresh.”
From the seafood samplers to specialty tacos, drinks, and desserts, there’s something flavorful for everyone to enjoy. We loved our tasting experience on an early-open press night, and can’t wait to come back for a full meal. The menu strongly leans towards the pescatarian, which is exactly our style.
The beautiful Just Chillin’ includes Gulf shrimp, crab, mussels, and oysters on the half shell. The Tropical Ceviche comes spicy with Habanero chiles, tropical fruit, cucumber, avocado, and catch of the day marinated in lime and orange juices, fresh squeezed.
Not only is the seafood fresh, it is also sustainable, from oysters to the TJ Whole Fried Fish, served with warm tortillas and salsas – ready to be made into a fresh at the table fish taco.
Grilled sweet, street-style corn is also cut at the table, served with butter, lime, chile, and cotixa cheese with a drizzle of chipotle. Possibly my favorite taste was the Peel & Eat Shrimp roasted in the shell with garlic, Cotixa cheese, lemon and chile.
Vegetarians are hardly forgotten in the dining experience, with offerings such as a Spice-Roasted Butternut Squash with crispy onions, and a mushroom taco. Beet & Watermelon salad comes with crunch Pepita brittle for a sweet and salty addition to queso fresco, red onion, arugula, and watermelon with lemon basil vinaigrette.
Vegan and gluten-free options are also available, and carnivores will find surf and turf options that include a grilled Angus filet, and deep-fried duck leg confit among the offerings on the menu.
And the guacamole – it’s amazing.
Press night included wonderful drinks and dessert tastings, too. From frozen margaritas to cucumber/jalapeno, watermelon, and blackberry/ginger margaritas, Sol makes excellent use of their 70 plus tequilas. We also watched a demonstration of the creation of a “fish bowl” offered for groups, featuring champagne, tequila, fresh frozen fruit, and Cointreau, as beautiful to look at as it is to taste. These are craft-cocktails at their best.
We found the ultimate indulgence in Nachos Dulces, warm tortilla chips that are dusted with cinnamon sugar, drizzled with dulce de leche, chocolate sauce, whipped cream, toasted almonds, and crushed Ibarra chocolate. Pretty amazing.
Can’t wait to try it? We’ll be heading back soon for lunch or dinner – why not join us – for a taste of Baja right here in LA.
Sol Cocina is located at 12775 W. Millenium Drive, Playa Vista between Lincoln and Sepulveda off Jefferson Boulevard.
- Genie Davis; Photos: Genie Davis and Sol Cocina