Jewel of a Stay – Hassayampa Inn

Posted on by Diversions LA

With its ruby red bricks and courtyard, a lobby with a perfectly preserved shining tile floor, and a carefully staff-operated elevator, the Hassayampa Inn in Prescott, Ariz. is an elegant, old-fashioned gem.

Lovingly cared for, the lobby features a beautiful mural painted over a burnished fireplace, comfortable reading chairs and warmly lit  lamps, and best of all, a convivial atmosphere that makes guests feel welcome and then less like guests and more like welcome visitors.

Located in the historic downtown area of Prescott, Arizona, a short stroll from the galleries, dining, and historic saloons of Whiskey Row, the Hassayampa maintains a lustrous dignity, formal without being fussy.

The hotel’s history glows as much as the hotel iteself. This is not a new, slap-dash construction chain motel, but a stately travel oasis for 95 years, exuding its history with grace. Designed in the 1920s by El Paso architect Henry Trost, Prescott townspeople bought shares in the project at $1 each, making the location a gathering spot for the community as well as for visitors even before it was completed in 1927.

Today, the building is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. A member of the Historic Hotels of America, the hotel was a  2022 finalist in The Historic Hotels of America Awards of Excellence, a standout among over 300 entries for the award.  The hotel was a finalist for Best Small Historic Inn/Hotel (Under 75 Guestrooms) as well as for best historic restaurant, hotelier of the year and ambassador of the year. The accolades are deserved.

The Apache name Hassayampa translates more or less as “the river loses itself,” just as the Hassayampa River north of Prescott does, sinking below the ground on its journey toward the sea. But the river’s namesake hotel is in no danger of being lost. With excellent service from the cheerful staff taking turns as elevator operators to the waitstaff at the hotel’s stained-glass-adorned Peacock Room restaurant, the Hassayampa seems destined to appeal to generations of travelers.

Just as it once drew luminaries such as Georgia O’Keefe and Will Rogers, it certainly drew us. The rooms are charming and offer modern comforts – a terrific mattress, flat screen TV, and good Internet, too. Cozy and well appointed, offering features such as a soft carpet with Native American patterning, burnished wood furnishings, deep maroon duvet and arm chairs, the rooms are also quiet – we did not hear our neighbors once.

 

The architecture throughout the hotel is a delight, ranging from Spanish Colonial Revival to Italianate features. Ceilings are handpainted; glass is etched, mosaics line tables, embossed copper panels are polished to a sheen. The courtyard offers outdoor dining in warm weather, and there is live music on weekends.

We traveled in February, and although there was a chill in the air outside, the hotel has a way of making one feel warm and cossetted. A romance package for Valentine’s Day includes breakfast along with touches like chocolate covered strawberries and champagne or sparkling cider add to the ambiance, making February a particularly great time to visit. Sunny days and crisp nights are the typical weather forecast – and were what we experienced as well, with a few patches of snow still frosting the ground.

We loved walking from the hotel into the heart of Prescott’s historic downtown, exploring Courthouse Square and stopping in for a drink at The Palace Bar, which like the Hassayampa itself, is packed full of history. Wyatt Earp and his brothers as well as Doc Holliday once imbibed there. The Sharlot Hall Museum offered interesting insight into the area’s history; Watson Lake provided easy, attractive hiking on trails that weave among large granite boulders.

There are some excellent lunch spots in Prescott, such as The  Local, where we enjoyed a terrific Beyond burger, and the restaurant’s signature grilled cheese, crafted from Havarti and pimento cheeses.

It’s a sandwich worth stopping for. The Greek salad with Israeli couscous and feta is another standout. But the best part: fresh limeade. The Local is a convivial spot with tables inside and out, and fast, friendly service.

But don’t  miss dinner at the Hassyampa. The art deco-style setting is perfect, the understated elegance and warmth that permeate the hotel itself are just as prevalent here, drawing visitors and locals alike with a changing array of beautifully plated entrees. Dishes such as scallops, rainbow trout and a roasted chili poblano – filled with leaks, corn, spaghetti and squash, vie for attention with classically prepared steaks. The restaurant also serves a heady brunch with delightfully decadent treats such as lemon souffle pancakes.  And, one Sunday a month, there’s an afternoon tea, which we need to return to experience.

Although there are many reasons to call the Hassayampa Inn a jewel – it’s history, the friendly staff, the beautifully preserved historic features – it’s all these facets that will make you want to visit this gem in a perfect setting – a thriving small town with plenty of history of its own nestled in the Bradshaw Mountains, the distinctive Thumb Butte, luring us out and up through the pines on its trails.

With a setting like that for a treasured historic hotel, why wait? We loved our February visit, and I highly recommend booking a stay during the  post-holiday season, or come in the spring for the Smoki Museum’s indigenous art festival,  attend a free June bluegrass festival, or enjoy the thrills of the world’s oldest rodeo in July.  Just save a room for us!

  • Genie Davis; photos – Genie Davis 

 

 

Harrison Love Shows Us the Way

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The Hidden Way is a a beautifully illustrated novel containing myths and legends culled from travels into the Amazon.  13 years in the making, Harrison Love’s book offers a rich understanding of indigenous cultures,  and a deep dive into the purpose of making art, which in his own words, “preserves a sense of the divine.”

That spiritual journey is what infuses the book, through Illustrations as meaningful as words. It is in all ways a lovely and lovingly told journey. The illustrations were created using lineloeum and woodblock printing, with each print colored using techniques from watercolor to spray paint and stencils. There is a sense of myth making and creating in these images as well as woven throughout the text.

As poetic as it is compelling, the book not only follows a journey, it depicts and creates its own.  “The stars returned to their daytime hiding places. Each day upon realizing that they were still alone in the wilderness, relying upon something so fleeting as a dream to guide them, the absurdity of their circumstances gave way to panic,” Love writes.

To some extent serving as Love’s doppelgange, the character of Khay traverses many places and mystical spaces.  Toward the end of the book, she is told, “You were chosen because you are a good student of the old ways, and because you value the power of myth. You seek knowledge with a clear altruism…” This is appears to be what Love hopes for the reader as well.

Along with a spiritual quest, the book also serves as an environmental one, referencing more than once the destruction of the jungle. “We cannot feel the moments of time pass until we recognize the last of them, when we have little time left. We were told that every day our own people cut into the jungle and lay waste the soil that their ancestors had tended…”

In terrible concert with the loss of the natural world, another loss hovers over the book, equally as powerfully heartbreaking. “Without our stories, we too may have our way of life lost to the deserts of time.”

The Hidden Way seeks to illiuminate those stories, retelling them in an immersive, sometimes feverish unspooling.  It reconstructs the mysths told among the tribes of the Peruvian Amazon and other Shamanic peoples. According to Love, some specific shamanistic myths were included from cultures outside Peru in order to reveal the loss of some of these traditional practices.

Shamanism itself is considered to be a study of the self, conjoined with a belief in the spiritual realm that is hidden from the human eye, but according to the author it can also be sought “in the depths of meditation or introspection,” or in the pages of this book.

The work itself unfolds as if through a meditative trance; it is a dance of words that follows a rhythm unusual in its variance between action and dream-like description. This is not to say that the book is difficult or histrionic; and while Love says it was written to pay tribute to the heritage of Shamanic teaching, a heritage too often disregarded, it is also not a history tome.

Rather, it serves as tribute and eulogy, connection and hope, revealing a culture and its stories in an immediate and absorbing fashion. Within these stories, there are spirits and quests, silence and energetic action, portents and promises. It is a kaleidoscopic story, filled with both an urgent immediacy and a profound respect for the mysterious wisdom and the practices it describes within the story.

A travel book like no other and a poem to past and future, inner being and the adventurous heart, The Hidden Way definitively takes readers on quite a journey.

Love is a painter, author, illustrator, and skilled muralist. The book he has created here is a mural of words,  guiding the reader through a search for wisdom, power, and above all else, the redemption of a new beginning. Highly unique, the book can be favorably compared to the works of Carlos Castaneda. Those with a mystic heart and a taste for adventure, read on.

  • Genie Davis; images and advance copy provided by the book’s author

 

 

Meow Wolf Omega Mart is the Cat’s Meow

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For once, what happened in Vegas shouldn’t stay in Las Vegas. Meow Wolf, the art collective that has successfully merged critical acclaim, creative force, and financial success, has done it again with Omega Mart, an interdimensional grocery store.

When I first viewed the original Meow Wolf installation in Santa Fe a number of years ago, I was wowed by the completely unimagined complexity of it. The House of Eternal Return presented a combination of immersive art and supernatural haunted house that was mind-bending.

Approaching the Omega Mart concept in Las Vegas was different going in: I knew the kind of artist-realized amusement-park-for-the-senses that I’d experience there.

The Las Vegas iteration is enormous – some 50,000-square-feet located at Las Vegas’ Area 15, and the location’s star.

It seems trivial to say it is enormously clever and humorous, but it is that. Encouraging visitors to uncover a mystery involving aliens, corporate greed, and a take-over by AI, visitors enter through a surreal version of a mega grocery store, explore an alien farming world, a series of corporate offices and mind-alteration areas, a factory, and even enjoy a ride down a fast slide (below) over the course of three floors.

Both cautionary fairytale and pure American success story gone mad, Omega Mart is brilliantly subversive and witty.

My favorite section is the large scale grocery section, with its frightening alien meat counter, strange cat foods, dice-rather-than-pit bearing avocados, zippered avocados (I mean, why not?), and strategically placed video monitors that provide visitors with an introduction to the founder of Omega Mart and his disappearance.

I could’ve spent hours exploring each hilarious food item and laundry product, and there is so much visual stimulation and color that it would be easy for any visitor to do so. But onward, and inward.

Slipping into the back of the store, from one entrance portal or another, the next space is the alien farming community, in which people are disappearing, and a seemingly idyllic existence with surreal flowers and swirling colors. Continue on into the ominous factory space, or travel upstairs to the employee break room and take in a few training videos that will help you find clues as to just exactly what’s going on with the company behind Omega Mart’s products.

The corporate area of Omega Mart includes an interactive AI robot, more clue-filled video portals, and employee cubicles and offices in which attendees can search through computers and files to uncover more mysteries. Branching off from this area are research labs and conference rooms, areas that I thought of as pure interactive art, including a musical room, tunnels of lights, mirrored experiences that seem to defy reality.

All in all there are over 250 art works created by more than 325 artists. The adventure of Omega Mart is to some extent a customized experience, much like the best of video gaming. Linger in one section or another, follow whatever plotline or discovery portal you wish. The basic premise is that the grocery store’s success and its products, as well as the disappearance of its founder and other individuals, are all connected to something called “The Source,” harvested and used by the corporation behind Omega Mart.

There is a resistance, the disappeared, the store staff – follow the story arc you wish. The only aspect you truly must follow is the art. Digital and in constant liquid motion or brightly rooted as the strange flowers growing on one entrance portal’s wall, there is something new to “not miss” around every corner.

Approximately 7 times larger than Meow Wolf’s original Santa Fe installation, and with a more layered and contextual storyline, Omega Mart is both brilliantly entertaining and glittering; over the top and even a bit overwhelming – at least when wearing a pandemic-safe KN-95. It is the ultimate in Las Vegas showmanship seamlessly merged with accessible, stimulating, and often dazzlingly original art.

If you’d like a souvenir, you can purchase one before you leave the Omega Mart store – perhaps you’d like a can of “Camel’s Dream of Mushroom Soup” for dinner, or a pair of lettuce sandals. And while you’re there, pick up a few cans of pigeon mousse for your kitty.

Viva Las Vegas.

Omega Mart is located at 3215 S. Rancho Dr., Las Vegas, NV 89102

  • Genie Davis; photos: Genie Davis & provided by Meow Wolf

SLO and Easy Getaway

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SLO – San Luis Obispo – is far more than a half-way point between Los Angeles and San Francisco. If you haven’t discovered it yet, you should – it’s a food haven, a paradise for wine and beer afficiandos, and a town with delightful, uniquely different accommodations.

It would be hard to think of a destination that’s more of a one-stop pleasure. Take Amtrak, leave the car at home – or drive – either way, SLO is an easy and engaging destination that offers so much to explore we’ll be featuring this charming city in several articles in the next month.

Valentine’s Day sweetheart stay? President’s Day Getaway? Winter break or spring fling – SLO is a great choice.

We loved staying at SLO Brew Lofts in the center of town. The sleek urban lodging is more cool apartment than it is hotel.

Beautiful hip furnishings, a full kitchen, and bathrooms that will make you want to bask are enhanced by touches such as a blue velvet sofa, Edison lights, cushy leather dining room chairs, sleek industrial-style Smeg refrigerators and stoves, cozy, tile rimmed fireplaces, and a state-of-the-art espresso and coffee maker.

Another fun feature: rooms come with Crossley record players – replete with lp choices in the rooms, and additional selections available in the hallway.

Exposed brick walls, unique and artful lighting features, high-end furnishings all win large points; loft sizes range from one to three bedrooms, with the largest unit including a private, creek-side patio. They’re romantic, but with the space they offer, the lofts also make for an excellent friends’ getaway or family gathering.

Although the lofts make it incredibly tempting to just stay in and enjoy a 70s-era 33 rpm and a blazing fire, SLO itself is well worth exploring.

Besides, you might only have to take a short walk to one of the top restaurants in town. These five luxury short-term rentals are positioned over one of them, The Carissa.

The Carissa occupies a space that was once the more casual SLO Brew gastropub. It was terrific too, but this change is particularly sweet.

With a lovely outdoor patio that overlooks the creek, and location offers both fire pits and comfortable, cushioned alcove seating, making the restaurant a vacation in and of itself. Inside, it feels hip and airy.

The Carissa is named for the classic building in which it and the lofts themselves are located; the interior reflects its heritage with bright white and blue floor tiles, the space’s original white-washed brick walls, wood-plank flooring and pressed tin ceilings.

The Carissa has a definite California-cool feel with both beachy artwork and cozy nooks within the large room, providing a sense of intimacy.

A mezzanine level includes a pool table.

We sat outside for dinner, warmed by heat lamps and thoughtfully provided soft lap blankets, as well as inventive craft cocktails to start our meal. SLO Brew beers are also on tap, and an intelligent wine selection is available.

We went with a Salty Dog – a refreshing, vodka-based drink with bitters, grapefruit, and a sea salt rim; and the Cigar Smoke, which arrives in a dramatic, covered presentation that literally features aromatic wood chip smoke. I’ve enjoyed smoked drinks before, and this one is outstanding. Rod & Hammers straight rye, orange, sugar cube, and that richly satisfying smoke.

We began our meal with the vegan tortilla soup – thick, creamy, and delightful; redolent of cilantro and with just the right bite of spice offset by silky avocado. The Refreshing Salad lives up to its name. Spring and spinach mix with raspberries, Asian pear, candied walnuts and the lovely bite of a mint jalapeno vinaigrette, the palette is both original and just right – sweet and spicy and cool. We shared a salmon plate with fries and cucumber slices with a dusting of chili powder as our sides. Pan-seared in shallot ginger butter, the salmon was intensely flavorful, tender and fresh.

We left room for dessert: mini churros and a banana fritter. The churros came with a rich chocolate dipping sauce and more than delighted. The banana fritter far exceeded expectations – I’m not a banana fan – a fluffy fried banana with the restaurant’s signature waffle batter, caramel, strawberries, and a scoop of vanilla Van Leeuwen ice cream.

With twinkling white lights strung across the patio and feeling cozy we concluded our meal with two more cocktails – one the sensationally inventive Head in the Clouds. Featuring a pouf of pink cotton candy, Asian pear, aloe, and watermelon, this vodka based treat is also Instagram-ready. I opted for a more traditional off-menu Irish coffee, made sweeter and lighter with Amaretto in the mix.

Although shops and a bevy of other lively clubs abound on SLO’s main street, we retired to our loft suite for a great night’s sleep.

Morning found us at the lovely, bright Joliene Bakery located in The Creamery complex, where owner Chloe Fertel offered us pastries such as a lemon tartlette and honey almond cake.

The bakery features beautiful breads such as Meyer Lemon Herb, sandwiches, and French macarons. Flavors on macarons vary; we had pistachio, chocolate, and raspberry – all terrific.

We browsed shops and took a long walk along the Cerro San Luis Lemon Grove Loop. Vast views of SLO reward a steep but well laid out four-mile trail.

We’ve taken this trail at sunset as well, when the westward-facing heights make a stunning view point.

Rewarding ourselves for our hike, we had another terrific al fresco meal at 1865 Craft House & Kitchen.

For starters: Crispy Cauliflower, a dish that has been over-used in many venues was a treat here – dusted with Cajun seasoning and coconut flour, with a dipping sauce of bracing chipotle aioli. The Dip Duo is a classic appetizer that could make a meal. Comprised of both roasted corn elote and guacamole, it’s an elevated take on a casual nosh that’s hard to stop eating.

But then came the beet salad with shrimp: made with sweet greens and gorgonzola; and a mushroom truffle flat bread featuring earthy crimini mushrooms.

The restaurant added a Beyond Meat sausage topping that made the dish even heartier. To drink? The Ciro peach vodka based Pismo Fog with muddled strawberries was beyond delicious, and alluring served with dry ice for a stunning effect. The light Cambria Pines was gin based, and included fresh squeezed lemon, a quite wonderful rosemary infused simple syrup, and a splash of Brut.

The restaurant is multi-leveled, with two patios back and front; the fresh, modern look embraces its catch phrase of “eat, drink, be happy.”

Late afternoon found us just south of town in the Edna Valley, enjoying the sunny outdoor tasting tables at Saucelito Canyon Winery. Crafting fine red wines from 13 acres of Zinfindels, Bordeauxs, and a handful off off-estate Cabernets and Merlots, the winery is unique in the region which often features Pinot Noir as its signature red. In fact, Saucelito is the only winery in the region that doesn’t produce Pinot; their Zinfindel was planted in 1860 and remains a centerpiece.

Their flagship Zin is produced from 40-year old vines from Croatia, a part of the U.C. Davis Heritage Collection. 

My favorite was the late harvest Zin which was sweet and delicious with the taste of berries and chocolate notes. The Rose was crisp, bright and tart; the unique Dos Mas introduces Grenache to the winery’s line-up, blending Zinfandel with Petite Syrah and Grenache.

Open from 10-5 daily, the winery offers generous pours and an astonishing variety of tastes.

From a luxurious loft stay to wine tasting and fine dining – SLO is easy to visit and fabulously easy to enjoy.

Always reinventing and reinvigorating its historic spaces, there are more stories coming up on SLO — a Central Coast original.

  • Genie Davis; photos: Genie Davis