Catalina Dreamin’

If you’re longing for an island getaway, without the flight to Hawaii, Catalina Island is a great choice. With spring weather finally showing up for SoCal, taking a smooth and quick Catalina Express boat from Long Beach, San Pedro, or Newport Beach will land you in Avalon Harbor in just over an hour (a bit longer from the OC).

We stayed in the Hotel Atwater, which has been beautifully refurbished, from the elegant, art deco lobby – replete with a harp, to the tasteful, plush rooms, blissfully quiet rooms, too. Done in understated creams and pastels, the rooms exude a hushed but unpretentious elegance. Adjoining the lobby, guests can easily pass into a covered shopping area that includes a coffee bar that makes a nice stop for a morning bagel and of course, a cup of your favorite a.m. beverage.

For lunch or dinner, try the perfect bluewater view at, naturally the Bluewater Grill. Fresh fish, views for miles, an airy, maritime-themed dining room, and a capacious patio, plus terrific cocktails make this a must-stop. And of course, their renowned fresh baked sourdough bread. The buttery sauteed sand dabs with capers were perfect in a light, refreshin lemon buere blanc. Served with decadently rich scalloped potatoes and flavorful well-prepared spinach, it was a classic dish that tasted freshly caught. The same freshness was more than evident in the Black & Blue Ahi, served two ways: blackened and seared rare with a slightly spicy, delicious wakame seaweed salad, wasabi cream, coconut ginger rice, and broccolini. For dessert, a smooth, fluffy key lime pie. My cocktail was a well-seasoned meal in itself. The Fisherman’s Mary was made with Blue Ice Vodka, housemade Bloody Mary mix, and served with bamboo skewered shrimp, pimento stuffed olive, lime and a tasty pickled green bean. My partner went for the Serrano Margarita, made the way he likes it – hot. The drink featured Cuervo Tradicional Silver Tequila, De Kuyper Triple Sec, freshlime juice, a splash of fresh orange, organic agave nectar, and his favorite – hand-crushed fresh serrano chili with a requested extra application.

Along with strolling the streets and browsing the shops of Avalon,  must-do sfor any visitor to the island include a stop to see the latest exhibitions at the Catalina Museum for Art and History – see our earlier article on the Tiki Tales exhibition, running through September, and the recent, but now-closed, perfectly curated CROSSING WATERS: CONTEMPORARY TONGVA ARTISTS CARRYING PIMUGNA, both discussed in two earlier articles in this publication.

And, whatever you do, you can’t miss the Behind the Scenes tour at the Casino. Yes, there’s a considerably shorter tour that gives you just a glimpse of this beautiful building, but the 90 minute Behind the Scenes is the way to go, to explore the private screening room, sit down and watch the lights dim in the stunning theater, learn about murals, dressing rooms, the ballroom, and take in the views from the balcony.

Our guide was well-versed in the history of this palatial structure, which opened May 29, 2029, and served as a major achievement for the island’s then-estate holder, William Wrigley Jr. His vision to create a welcoming “playground for all” on the island included the casino theater and ballroom. The theater was among the first to screen a “talking picture.” The ballroom hosted all night dances that brought revelers on steamships to the island to swirl along to Big Band sounds, while partaking of non-alcoholic beverages in the undersea-themed lounges.

Another recommended dining experience is the Naughty Fox, a relative newcomer to Catalina’s cuisine. Here we enjoyed a lovely version of a classic Mai Tai – Vic’s features Don Q silver, Mysters dark rum, pineapple juice, orange juice, and orgeat syrup. My partner’s margarita with tajin rim was refreshing and bright. Our meal: a rich, dreamy  platter of elevated macaroni and cheese; and a trio of fresh-from-the-sea shrimp tacos, simple, and simply delightful. The meal is served with a street and bay view either at a hip bar with chartreuse seats or outdoors on a triangular patio.

And of course for tiki drinks, decor, and yummy sea-centric bar bites, the place to go is Luau Larry’s, a bit farther down Crescent Street, and open late, mentioned in last week’s look at Catalina Island.

So — what are you waiting for? Go ahead, enjoy an island getaway – without the hassles of TSA and a long flight.

  • Genie Davis; photos by Genie Davis and Jack Burke

Crystal Clear: Catalina Glows with Chihuly Glass Exhibition and Zip Line Sunshine

Catalina 3

Above, Chihuly at the Catalina Island Museum

The winter months are the off-season in Catalina, home to to the iconic Casino building, kitschy shops, and beautiful, once-made-in-Catalina pottery and tile work. But off-season or not, there are some very wonderful reasons to check out the island before the holidays.

Catalina 21

The glow begins early with sunlight dazzling over ocean views heading from the mainland to the island. Catalina Express offers multiple, less-busy-than-summer crossings in high speed boats from Long Beach, San Pedro, and Dana Point. The fleet of high-speed ferries makes traveling the 22 miles across the sea effortless and smooth; we had beautiful crossings early in the morning and by moonlight and sunset.

Catalina 23

Catalina 22

catalina 24

Catalina 32

Outdoor seating is surprisingly comfortable, no hard plastic benches here; indoors the lounge area offers a bar, tables, and padded seats.  If you’re looking for even more luxury, you can upgrade to the Commodore Lounge, with a complimentary beverage, packaged snack, and reclining seats.

Catalina 19

Catalina 20

Catalina 39

Once on the island,  the adventurous in our group of four took a thrilling ride on one of the island’s newest attractions, the Catalina Zip Line Eco Tour, (above and below.) Grand vistas of the crystal clear harbor water spread out before the intrepid duo who were thrilled with propelling down 5 separate zip lines, and dropping from 600 feet above sea level. One run traversed 1,100 lineal feet. In total, participants travel approximately 3/4 of a mile at a whistling speed of up to 30 miles per hour.

Catalina 36

Catalina 33

Catalina 35

Catalina 38

catalina 37

Our pair was shuttled to the top of the zip line course from Descanso Beach. Their return to home base included pauses at several eco-stations where zip line operators discussed the flora and fauna of Catalina Island. The adventure lasts close to 2 hours, and both zippers were exhilerated by the experience.

Below, The Catalina Island Museum.

catalina 7

catalina 8

Catalina 9

Catalina 11

Until December 12th, there’s another way to experience the crystalline glow and excitement of the island. The Chihuly glass exhibit at the Catalina Island Museum is a stunning array of work by glass artist Dale Chihuly.  The museum itself is a sparkling gem; opened just over a year ago in 2016, it makes the most of both natural light inside and some outdoor exhibit space which was perfect to create a garden glass for some of Chihuly’s ephemeral works.
Catalina 10
Catalina 12
The glass sculptor’s works here are a true fit for the island, the delicate translucent pieces mimic water and sea creatures, mysterious flowers, sea weed and seashells.
Catalina 13
catalina 16
catalina 15
Catalina 14
Dazzling works seem to be a part of the island’s clear waters themselves. From well-known Chihuly works such as Seaforms, Red Reeds, and the towering chandelier Sea Blue and Green Tower to those less familiar, such as Mille Fiori, these are brilliant, inwardly illuminated artworks, the stuff dreams are made of.
Catalina 18
catalina 2
catalina chihuily 1
The museum is currently fundraising to keep one of these pieces as a part of its permanent collection, Aureolin Yellow Spire Chandelier, a hot yellow sun, below, which vibrates with light and color.
catalina 28
catalina 31
catalina 30
catalina 17
catalina 4
There is something entirely magical about Chihuly’s work, his vast range of color, the soaring spirit of each piece, the voluptuous sea forms, and his flower-petal-like baskets, inspired by Native American basket art. The museum itself offers a series of insightful permanent exhibits; a film documents the history of the island, old newsreel footage, and a segment on Chihuly; exhibits include island-made pottery, island history, and island folklore.
The Museum is located at 217 Metropole Ave. in the heart of Avalon, and is open 10 to 5 daily.
The island, open year ’round, is waiting.
catalina 40
So, doff that sailor’s cap, hop on a ferry, and follow the glow, whether you’re taking a zip, a sea-dip, or a dive into celebrated art work.